The test procedure is quite simple. Set the meter to read DC volts, and set the correct range if needed. Some meters will select the correct range automatically. Nearly all meters will come with instructions on how to set them to read DC volts. Next, connect the meter across the vehicle battery, positive (+) to positive (+) and negative (-) to negative (-). With the engine running at a moderate idle - say 1200 to 1500 RPM, the meter should read approximately 13.8 to 14.8 volts and be steady. If the reading is substantially outside these figures and all other items mentioned have been tested and verified good, then the alternator is likely defective.
Here's what causes this: A blown fuse for the system, A wheel-speed sensor that is damaged or covered by road grime, A broken wire between the sensors and the ABS controller, An ABS controller that has stopped working. A pump and valve that apply the right amount of brake fluid pressure to each wheel to prevent locking can also trigger an ABS sensor warning light when those items go bad. If the red warning light for the regular brakes comes on, that typically means your vehicle is losing brake fluid or the brakes are so worn that you don't have normal stopping power. Either of those situations warrants immediate attention and possible repair work.
When you pop the hood and look at the complicated mechanical devices called engines, you notice right away there's plenty of wiring. In fact, the wires seem to snake around the engine in a complex configuration that makes little sense to anyone who is not a mechanic. Auto engines have plenty of electrical configurations that are critical to their smooth operation. The fact is that when a car experiences problems, it could easily be an electrical problem as much as it could be a mechanical problem. Any qualified mechanic needs to be familiar with both mechanical and electrical problems in order to be efficient at his or her job. That means a mobile car mechanic must be prepared to complete a variety of repairs including those related to the electrical systems.
Plug up the new motor. Plug the wiring harness into the window motor. This will provide power to the motor so use caution. Lower your window back into its correct place on the wiring harness. Remove the tape or re-install your window. Make sure that the tabs in the bottom of the window are properly aligned to bolt it back onto the regulator. Bolt the window to the regulator. Using the bolts you removed earlier and the same extension, you need to bolt your window back to the regulator. Test your window. It should now move up and down freely when you press the switch.